ph: 402-476-8873
fax: 402-786-5777
alt: 402-786-5296

We take pride in responsible application.
Our fertilizer is formulated for the specific needs of the soils in this area. Equipment is routinely checked for accurate calibration to ensure proper dosage. We promote cultural practices to reduce the needs of pesticides, and applications are made with your families health and safety in mind.
If you would like more information on our products and services please contact us today.
Please call our office, The office personnel will have a copy of the estimate on file. Kim or Diane will visit with you and determine which services you would like. You can prepay for your service or pay per application. They record to your file any special requests you may have.
No, you can terminate the service at any time.
Direct contact with the fertilizer is not advised. We suggest you water in the application before using the lawn. Diane does all of the scheduling for the lawn applications. If you are a call first account she will call you the day before the application to notify you.
Rain is good for the fertilizer. The weed control has a surfactant which helps the herbicide stick to the plant and penetrate the cell structure. However it needs about 30 minutes to set in and be effective. If it rained before that time period expired we will need to reapply.
This may happen, especially in thin areas and stress areas by concrete and parkways, as weed seeds can be introduced in many different ways. If you are on the 5-step program service calls are free. Please call the office and ask for a technician to come out and spray.
Weeds can grow in very adverse conditions. Soil temperatures can be upwards of 20 degrees higher along a sidewalk when compared to the center of the yard. This of course requires more water to equal transpiration rates. We generally find the perimeter of the yard gets less water than the center due to watering habits and sprinkler setup. Also the soil quality in a parkway is usually compromised when sand, salt, and gravel get pushed off the street with the snow.
Generally 1 inch of water per week is sufficient. Factors such as soil type, grade, weather conditions, and grass type all play a role in what is required. Our technicians can give you specific advice for your particular yard.
Herbicides work by aborbing formulated salts into the plant, which causes dessication of cell structure. The more favorable the growing situation the faster they can aborb the herbicide, resulting in a quicker death.
Generally we recommend within a 72 hour window. The fertilizer particles have a coating that will resist sun degradation for a period of time. However, waiting more than a week in the summer months may result in diminished results. When it is cooler the fertilizer could withstand degradation for 14-21 days and still be fully effective.
The fertilizer is formulated to feed the lawn over a period of time. Different formulations for specific stages of the plant growth with slow release nitrogen, allow the fertilizer too feed the plant over this time period. This is why we prefer to use granular over liquid fertilizers.
Some factors to consider when comparing prices. Make sure a high quality fertilizer is being applied and at the correct rates. A fertilizer program should apply certain amounts of each macro/micro nutrient needed to correct deficiencies. Similar particle size is essential for even broadcasting. Many times cheap fertilizers will not have uniform particle size. A large granual thrown from a spreader will go farther than a small one.
Don't under estimate the peace of mind of having an office to call when you have a question to concern. Our office is staffed Monday-Friday to respond to your concerns and be proactive in dealing with issues.
Yes, grass is a plant. If you cut the leaves on a plant, you are reducing the "energy factories" of that plant. For most grass types you never want to cut off more than 1/3 of the blade. This will leave more leaf to photosynthesize, shade more of the soil to prevent water evaporation, and reduce the amount of sunlight to potential weed germination. Make sure your blade is sharp.
Generally we recommend overseeding in the fall. This will allow pre-emergents to be used in the spring to reduce weed populations. Consult your technician for advice specific to your yard.
Aeration helps control thatch, improves soil structure, helps create growth pockets for new roots, and opens the way for water and fertilize to impact the root zone. Annual aeration is advised for lawns with high clay content, and some may need spring and fall if there is alot of foot traffic.
If you have relatively few weeds and no disease problems, mulching is beneficial to the lawn. Proper mulching does not cause thatch problems if you mow at proper levels. 90% of the grass blade is water which will quickly breakdown. In addition, you are putting back into the soil some of the fertilizer that was absorbed into the plant. The remainder of the leaf will break down and enter the soil profile as organic material, especially beneficial for clay soils.